Eagles International Forum

Paul, I think the red cyl is to raise his bed up to gain access

Thank you Paul, Van is correct that cylinder lifts the bed.
Dan thank you for your reply. Yes the siding will completly seal the space between the fans and the condensor. If that is sealed will it draw less air because the fans are not next to the condensor? Yes the compartment is sealed between it and the engine conpatment and it will draw air in from the outside. I have planned on useing 134 in the system, is that OK. I am always interested it comments as I want to do it right the first time.

Thank You Wayne

Wayne, 134a freon is good, it runs lower head pressure. I would think that you would get better air flow across the condensor if the fans were closer to it. Remember that the area outside the condensor door is kind of a dead spot when running down the road as far as air flow, so you probably won't get much ram air to assist. Sealing the compartment between the fans and the condensor is a must.

Personally, I would put the fans closer to the condensor. Just my opinion.

Wayne,
I haven’t looked at the postings on your conversion until yesterday. You are doing a stellar job on your conversion. I am impressed with the quality of work. It is a substantial undertaking. There haven’t been any additional postings and the last comments were on the A/C. I know that in my world the other occupant (the boss, I’m just ‘her driver’) in the bus has minimal requirements but on the top of the list is being warm when it is cold out and being cool when it is hot out. The last posting posed questions and you had reservations on the condenser fans.
Static pressure or the pressure to overcome the resistance of air flow is what needs to be considered as well as the CFM or volume of airflow. Adding fans in parallel (that is how your fans currently are installed) will increase the volume but not overcome the resistance to flow. The propeller bladed fan doesn’t like static pressure very much. Propeller bladed fans are usually placed in applications where there is no ‘duct work’. Duct work poses resistance to flow or pressure drop. If you installed the fans in series, the outlet of one fan into the inlet of the other, it would work like a multi stage blower in a vacuum cleaner. This has a better potential of overcoming the pressure of the engine compartment. If you stack the fans, the fan location needs to be in a plenum like you have now so that you get airflow across the entire condenser. You could eliminate the fans having to overcome the pressure of the engine compartment by having them discharge out the bottom of the enclosure (down towards the road). You could then place a scoop or a hood to direct the discharge to the rear and help possibility with a venturi affect while motoring down the highway. This suggestion is to try to allow you to use the current fans you have, and if as you stated one fan has the adequate CFM for the application, then this should work. (If my thinking is hosed up I am sure it will be pointed out to me)
Also the typical automotive or ‘cab air’ application places the evaporator close to the condenser and compressor. I suspect that the evaporator is going to be at the front of the bus. There are some considerations on suction and liquid line sizing to allow for pressure drop over the distance. This will minimize the horsepower used overcoming the pressure drop and maximize the cooling. We can discuss this if you have not all ready considered this.
Look forward to additional progress photos and descriptions.
Larry

Thank You Larry, That is interesting about placing the fans in seires I have never thought of that and it makes sence. Ducting out the bottom is something I have thought about the problem is my exhaust outlet is there. Sounds like you know something about AC and I know nothing and need help. I will pick your brain as I get closer to that point. The next thing I will need help with is the sizing of pipe.

Thank You Wayne

Larry, I am glad you brought up the TWO factors that impact the application of electric fans. Everybody looks at CFM ratings and forget to address static pressure issues.

Wayne and I had a very similar discussion this week. In my case, I use 4 of the curved blade fans on my charge air cooler. The air is ducted to the bottom of the bus. However, I am pretty sure that there is some static air pressure that causes the fans to be less effective. Wayne and I feel that there is quite a bit of pressure under the rear of the bus from both the air dynamics at speed and the pressure caused by the large radiator fan. Wayne is concerned about the static pressure issue since these fans exhaust into the engine compartment.

The CFM rating of my fans is quite good and four of them should be plenty, but I simply do not get good charge air cooling.

I am currently installing a large hydraulic fan that is intended for this type of application. Wayne said that he would follow my results and may switch to a hydraulic fan for his application.

Jim

Post 10 Front end caster adjustment Part 1
I have always said that Eagles do not have enough caster and have no way to adjust the caster. If you look at the connection between the Torsilastic bushings to the upper control arm to the king pin arm to the lower arm you will see that all connections are very ridged. The only way I see to adjust the caster is to rotate the Torsilastic bushings around the lower arm connection to the Torsilasti spring.
I have come up with a way of doing this by mounting the Torsilastic bushing to a plate that can be moved in an arc to rotate the king pin assembly.
To accomplish this I thought it would be best to rebuild the whole front suspension and steering frame. I started by milling a new cross member that both Torsilastic springs are bolted to at there mid point. I made this piece 2 inches longer to make the front wheel track to be 2 inches wider than stock. I have always thought the front wheels on a 15 set in to far. I discovered that the reason for this is the 102 rule. By moving the wheels out the wheel studs are wider than 102. I am willing to take my chances as this part of the bus is very hard to measure. ( please don’t tell anyone).
I then used a 5X19 W beam to make the support that holds the Torsilastic bushings and the steering arms . The same beam is used the marry the upper beam the lower cross member.
The connection for the Torsilastic bushings are milled from a solid block.
To be able to rotate the Torsilastic bushings they will be mounted on a 5/8 plate that is slotted in an arc at 8 points. This plate will be able to move in an arc thus the adjustment. This plate will be mated to another 5/8 plate that is drilled and tapped at the 8 corresponding points. The latter plate will be welded to the W beam.
Part 2 will be the final assembly. The Reason for two post is so if any one see anything wrong let me know so I can correct it now.

This is an OEM cross member for a 10 Torsilastic bushings and there mounts Cross member and W beam Frame in jig and bulkhead one and two
Large plate drilled and tapped 5/8 plate slotted and holes for the Torsilastic bushing Both plates and upper control arm in place

You do remarkable work Wayne! I don't know about what you are doing, but it sure looks like you have the bases covered! I've never gotten in that deep on our 01.

I think I know where to go when I need to do some work! Between you and Clifford, I don't know who to show up at first!

I'm glad to see you posting again, at least we know you're working on it!

Well, at least I know what Torsialastics look like now! That's more than I knew before.

Looking good, Wayne.

van wrote:Atta Boy.

Verrrrrry Interesting .... I do have a non technical question if I may?

HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR SHOP FLOOR SO $$#$#@!# CLEAN?

Curious people want to know.'

BCO