Eagles International Forum

Post 4
With the drive axle in place my attention turned to the engine. Because this is probably the last bus I'll build (if I start another bus, the boss will either shoot me or kick me out and I won't have enough money to do another bus!) I wanted to use a motor that would last a long time and get good fuel mileage. The two that came to mind were the Cummins or the Detroit. I have a Big Cam 400 in my 05 and if the rest of the Cummins motors are as good, that's OK with me. But due to some very fortunate circumstances I am going to use a Series 60 Detroit. One day a friend called and he had found a 515 horse Series 60 with 3 miles on it. It came out of a truck that was being delivered from the factory to the dealer and was rolled. I could no pass this motor up. The only draw back is it is an EGR motor. That will cost me a little fuel mileage. I am using a 10 speed Eaton Autoshift for a transmission. This transmission makes sense to help save fuel. It is a manual trans that is shifted by a computer. The extra gears will come in handy when traveling around the hills we have here called The Rocky Mountains. Also the transmission does not require extra cooling like the automatic. Less heat to deal with. It does require a clutch to start and stop.
The engine was centered in the rear of the bus. The engine frame rails were fabricated using 3 1/2 X 3 1/2 X 1/4 tube. The engine cradle side rails were made of 4 X 4 X 1/2 angle iron. The front cross member was fabricated using 4 X 4 X 1/2 angle welded into a tube shape. I mounted the trailer hitch using the cross member and a 2 X 2 X !/4 tube for extra strength. The rear cross member was made using various thickness and sizes of plate steel. When fabricating the cross members, be sure and make room so that the oil pan can be removed. I used stock motor mounts both front and rear. The mounts were a little difficult to find but worth the trouble. They are large and have a lot of rubber to isolate the vibration from the motor to the fame. If you need to find these mounts, call and I will help you get them. I found them in the boat industry. I fabricated a cart to help move the engine in and out of the bus. When the cart is under the bus, it holds the engine cradle about 1/2 inch above the frame using jacks. I simply raise the bus and remove the cart. I mounted the engine to the cart and installed it in the bus.

As I mentioned in Sonnie Gray's pantograph thread, I have posted these pictures in a somewhat large format so that you can see the detail. I have tested this size photo on several screens that we have and it does not cause a problem. If you have any problems with these photos, please let me know.

A few notes on these pictures. In the first picture you will see a crank hub adapter that Wayne and I designed. It allows 2-4 industrial sheaves with bushings to be mounted to the crank.

The mounts that Wayne used are what I think are called "Metalastic" (sp?). I have been told they are the best. That is what Eagle used on their Series 60 installation as Wayne said. I tried very hard to find them when I was doing my Series 60 conversion and could not find them. Wayne, if you can find the source, I think it would help those thinking about engine conversions.

Lastly, I asked Wayne if he was going to use the truck pan shown in the last photo. He said no, he was going to use a shallow pan ($$$$$$). I have all of the part numbers for the shallow pan and related parts, along with some detailed wiring information on page 7 of my project pages (http://www.rvsafetysystems.com/busproject7.htm)

Jim

Wow! Now that's what I call great craftsmanship!

Makes my 40 year old Eagle look like 40 year old Eagle! Gonna have it ready for Quartzsite?

Way to go Rusty!

I can't wait to see this all together. It is going to be a beautiful bus. And since Wayne promised to give me his 40' once this is done...

No wait... that was just me dreaming! Still can't wait to see this done!

Im,.................speachless Wayne........Im going to sit back here and watch for some ideals to come my way. Great craftmanship there buddy. I can just imagine the rust bullet on that frame and boy-ole-boy what a site that will be. What is that power plant you are mocking up for her??? Keep posting some pics for us and we will be watching for them.


................Kentucky Steve .................

Post 5 Tag Axle

With the motor setting in place I turned my attention to the tag axle that will give me time to plan the motor plumbing. The tag axle I am using is not my idea. I borrowed the idea from a guy in Texas with a yellow motor in his Eagle ( Sonnie Gray ). The problem I have is my bus is 102 wide and I wanted the drive axle and the tag axle to have the same track. The axle I chose was assembled in Texas using parts from other manufactures and they would not make me one wide enough. I bought the axle assembly, tore it apart, cut the axle and made it wider. When I finished welding the axle I discovered it had about 1/8 inch toein and I was not satisfied. When I cut the axle I removed a tag with the name of the manufacture of the axle in Canada. On a chance I called them to see if they would make an axle to my specifications they said no problem and they even added disc brakes that where not offered from the first company. It should be noted the tag axle needs a drop in it for driveshaft clearance.

I prepared the frame by making an 1 1/2 X1 1/2 11 ga. tubing truss between bulkheads 7 AND 8 on each side of the tunnel. The truss was covered with 1/4 inch plate so the axle assembly could be bolted to the frame. The tag axle is an air ride with the ability to raise the axle if needed. I know the drive axle will not hold the bus when the tag is raised, but it will help to not drag the tag axle tires in a tight spot. I will be using Super Single rims and tires on both the drive and tag axle. The truck drivers I have talked to say the Super Singles ride smoother than duals. Some say they get better fuel milage.


Super Single on tag Axle Tag axle curbside View of drop in axle from engine room Widening axle (experiment gone bad) Tag airbag
[Tag axle in place

As has been the case on other posts, I used a size format for the "post 5" pictures that is a bit larger than it probably should be, but I think the detail needs to be displayed.

This will be the last time I ask if the size presents any problem displaying on your computer.

Hope you all enjoy Wayne's incredible project. Believe me, it is even more impressive when you see the actual work!!!!

Jim

Post 6 Radiator, Fan, Charged air cooler, Cooling system, and Exhaust system

The first thing I did was line the engine compartment with 14 ga. sheet metal.
I have been told that a 32" fan at full speed wiil consume as much as 50 horsepower. I am sure on hot days on long hard pulls you need all of the cooling you can find. On cool days with normal driving you shouldn't need all of the cooling the fan will deliver. To help control this I am using a two speed transmission. That will let me run the fan a half speed when full cooling is not needed. I could have used an air clutch but the ones I researched were not rated for my engine. Some ( smarter than me) will question my choice due to the energy loss with the transmission. We will see if it helps when I get it on the road. The transmission is hooked through a drive shaft to a right angle box with a 32" 12 blade fan made by Multiwing. The original model 15 right angle box was mounted upside down (can't figure that one out). I mounted the new right angle box right side up.

The orginal radiator and charged air cooler were mounted side by side. By moving my engine to the center of the bus I am able to stack mine one in front of the other. The radiator is for an 8V92 and the charged air cooler is as big as the radiator. The charged air cooler was made to my specs. by Duralite out of Canada. Again this Canadian company was a pleasure to work with. They did as I asked without trying to talk me out of what I wanted like most American companies do. The charged air inlet and outlet were made to go over the radiator. I had to raise the floor next to the bed to make this work. The BOSS said it was OK as long as it was on my side.

I tied the two air cleaners together with 6" tubing reducing it just before it went to the turbo. The rest of the charged air system was made using 4" tubing.

The cooling system was tied together using 2 1/2 " tubing. When I had the radiator checked out I had them add two 1 1/4 " outlets for my generator cooling lines. The generator will also have its own radiator. I have trouble cooling the generator in my 05 when going down the road. With the use of both radiators I should have no trouble cooling the generator. I added 1" lines for heat to the drivers area and 1" lines to the AquaHot.

I ran dual exhasts. The drivers side is 5" and the curb side is 4". I did not what to run 5" up and over the motor. The mufflers were made by Grand Rock to my dimension. The exhast is directed out the rear corners on each side. I made the exit pipe by splitting 2" pipe and adding plate between the halfs. I will cover the exhast system with a heat blanket to help keep some of the heat out of the engine room.

Side view of charged air cooler Radiator with charged air inlets on top Rear view of engine
Two speed transmission hooked to the right angle box Air tubing in place View from bedroom Tailpipe curb side Another view of the rear of the engine

Wayne,

Again, very nice workmanship. Are you going to use Rust Bullet or whatever it's called, on your exposed metal? It sure looks like a clean job. How far along are you actually? The detail is amazing!

Between you Steve and Gary there will be some new Eagles Flyin' down the interstates!

Paul, When I get everything welded in place (about another year give or take a year) I will tear it all apart and spray the whole frame with Rust Bullet. I hope I can get to look as good as Steve. When the frame is finished I can start on what I realy like to do, the woodwork.