Eagles International Forum

I have seen some posts where Jim was worried about an air lock on the S60 head.

Can anybody brief me on this?


Thanks

Mason

Hi Mason

Several folks warned me about a possible air lock in the rear of the head (flywheel end) because of the difference of the incline of the crankshaft center line from a truck application to a bus application. In a truck the engine is located slightly lower on the flywheel end where as it is opposite in a bus (usually).

My memory (pretty iffy at my age) is that I ran a small tube from one of the water ports in the flywheel end of the head to a port at the top of the radiator. The photo below shows the flywheel end of the head with the temp sensor in place and the extra ports.
I searched my photos and did not find one that would confirm that modification.

All that said, there are a ton of series 60 conversions and I have never heard of any problem with an air lock in the head (assuming that normal purging processes are performed).

Jim

Makes sense.

Is there anything I need to know before firing my bird up?

My transmission cooler lines are completed, now I just need the add fluid and... Fire away?

I believe I have power to the computer, so that shouldn't be a problem.

And we are not going to move it, just see if it will start

Not much to worry about when firing a Series 60. It sounds like you will have coolant in engine - should never run when dry as the O-rings on the liners will get destroyed.

Obviously it would be best to have some sort of ECM reader available to help you see the settings before and during the first firing but not mandatory.

Depending on the fuel filter system you are using (really recommend a Fuel Pro to replace stock filters) you will need to prime the mechanical pump.

Lots of folks warn about running the starter too long or trying to start on low battery voltage.

Other than that, good luck and keep us posted.

Jim

Ok,. Bus: 1, Mason:1

Oil filled and not leaking, however:

Put 4 gallons of coolant in and is is dripping out an oblong hole on the back of the water pump.

The hole is pretty much parallel to the block, from what I can feel and see.

Grr

What is the proper method to purge the cooling system??

Ready to fire tomorrow?!?

The best way is to install a valve of some sort in the highest part of the water tubing. If you have done that you can open the valve until water bleeds out. You can also open the valve after you start the engine to finish the bleeding.

I suspect you have already filled the system (hopefully with the correct antifreeze - not automotive for cars), so you will probably have to rely on the Series 60 ability to self purge.

An issue you will have to address is the struggle to get the engine up to a temperature that will open the thermostats. If you have a fan control shut it off. If not cover the radiator. Even with that it will still be a struggle.

Good luck and keep us posted

Jim

Ok, I will open some valves and get some air out.
I have a valve in on of the ports you have a picture of, that should do the trick, I think it is the highest point.

Yes I filled with red S60 coolant, after replacing water pump. seals were bad

And my fan is unhooked for the present...

I guess if the shift pad lights up we'll take 'er for a spin!!

Lol