Eagles International Forum

Please make sure to follow the instructions in the order that has been described. Do not skip the factory designed steps.

I am sorry that it has taken this long to finish this adjustment procedure, but we have been without internet for a few weeks.

Once you have the drive axle adjusted, then it is time to adjust the front axle. Keep in mind that the front axle was off the ground when you checked the measurements on the drive axle. When you let the front end down, the measurements on the drive axle may change. Don't worry about that because after you adjust the front end, they should come back into adjustment.

First, measure the front end at the wheel flares just as you did on the drive axle. Record your measurements.

Next, using your bottle jack with the gauge, jack up each front torsion at the outermost part of the torsion until the tire just clears the ground. Check and record the weight.

You want the weights to be within 100 lbs. from side to side. If they are off more than 100 lbs., then adjust the lower side up until it is even with the higher side. This is done through the same adjustment rod that you adjust for height. Keep in mind that this will change the height also.

When you make your adjustment, raise the front end off the ground and place jack stands under the bulkheads for safety. Loosen the vertical bolts on the end shackles of the torsion bars. Then using your 1-7/8" wrench, back off the outer nut on the adjustment rod and then make your adjustment by turning the inner nut clockwise forcing the fixing arm outboard.

Once you have evened the weights, then shake up the bus by moving it forward and back hitting your brakes several times. Every time you make an adjustment you should shake up the bus to settle the adjustments you just made.

Next, measure the front again at the wheel flares. Your measurements should be fairly equal from side to side since you evened the weight. Determine how much you need to raise the front end. Remember that for every inch of threads on your adjustment rod you can raise the coach approximately two inches.

If you have for example, 46" on one side and 45-3/4" on the other but your weights from side to side are dead even, then I would raise both sides 2" giving you 48" and 47-3/4". Keep in mind that the weights being even are more important than the heights being even since this is your steering axle. If you have distributed weight inside the coach evenly, then the weight should be equal from side to side along with your height.

Make your adjustments and recheck after you have made adjustments to both sides. Make sure you tighten the vertical bolts at the shackles after you have finished adjusting.

Now you are finished.

Dan

Dan, I hope you check in on this thread every so often. I have had a nagging question about suspension adjustment. Pasted below is a post I made on an Eagle Yahoo group. Would you mind commenting on my observation:

>>>>>>>post from Eagle Yahoo Group>>>>>>>

One of the things I have thought quite a bit about is the loading
situation. The Eagle manual has specifications for setting the
suspension height as has been noted. However, that is primarily for a
seated bus that is empty. When we set our height it is generally at a
loaded condition (all of the conversion material/parts are in place)
and the bus is often very close to the maximum GVW weight.

It is my opinion that our conversions can have a slightly lower ride
height and still be set properly. Having said that, I set my ride
height to the 14 inch height at the bottom of the bays.

>>>>>>>>end paste>>>>>

Jim

That's an excellant point Jim, one that I have thought a lot about too. Fully loaded, my 45' coach grosses 43,000. I have set my ride height at 12". The manual does not really address how much deflection occurs when fully loaded, but I would wager that it is more than 1". Gary Bennett at B&B Coach in Vegas told me that he sets the loaded height at 12" too. Hope Dan jumps in here with some advise, particularly about the fully loaded height on 45's. Merry Christmas everyone.

Mark, at 14 inches, my coach rides fine and steers well, so it must not be an issue. I would think 12 inches might be better. As I look at other Eagles, I would guess that mine is about 2 inches higher than most all of the others.

One thing about it, I don't worry very much about dragging in the center on on the ends. If I do, I will know that I was not paying attention

Eagle built a few (perhaps many) buses for converters. My guess is that they set them at the factory recommendation. The interesting question is what they told to the converter to do after the conversion was completed.

Jim

Jim, My 05 weighs 40,000 wet. I have it set at 14" seems to do fine at that hieght.

Merry Christmas Wayne

Jim,

Here is what I posted in SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENT PART 1.

The correct ride height measured from the aluminum wheel flare edge down through the centerline of the wheel to the ground, should be 48 inches. Measuring from the bottom of the baggage bay tubing to the ground should be 14 to 14-1/2 inches. If you use the latter measurement, make sure you are on level ground. These are the measurements that were used for an empty seated bus. Since motor homes are carrying a load at all times, you may choose to set them an inch lower, 47 inches or 13 to 13-1/2 inches.

I personally would not set them any lower than one inch from the seated bus specifications. Remember, the longer you run the bus at the lower height, the more strain you put on the torsion spring due to the geometry of where your fixing arms are located in the lower position. Keeping the suspension adjusted up will prolong the life of the torsion bars and give you better ground clearance in and out of driveways and intersections.

Dan