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Alternator Pulley Removal

This is a public forum to discuss Eagle related technical issues. If you are having a problem with your Eagle, this is the place to find help.
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beltguy
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Alternator Pulley Removal

Post by beltguy »

David Anderson posted on BCM about his trials and tribulations of removing the large 3 groove pulley.  I started this thread so that we will have documentation in our tech archives.  David, if possible I would love to have you post the pictures you did over there so we can build on this thread.

The issue is that the pulley is mounted with what is called a Taper Lock bushing.  I have worked with them all my years at Gates and now teach about their installation/remove in my "teaching" gig.  If you have never worked with them, it is not obvious how they work.

Hopefully David will post the pictures and we can discuss in more detail.

David, I have the pulley and complete bearing housing.  It is yours for the cost of shipping ($$$$).

Jim
Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
'85 Eagle 10 with Series 60 & Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission SOLD
2005 Dodge 2500 with 5.9 Cummins and 6 speed manual 2014 Passport 26 foot trailer
Bus Project pages: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
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davida
Posts: 174
Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 7:43 pm
Bus Model: 1985 Eagle 10

Re: Alternator Pulley Removal

Post by davida »

Ok, Jim, be glad to share

I called San Antonio Belt and Pulley and sent them pictures.
After studying this, they told me to tap the outer pulley toward the inside and it will slide off the bushing, but the whole assembly comes off at the same time.
So I did that and it slid right off.  I took a small chisel and spread the bushing and it broke in half, but it can still be reused that way.  The 3 pieces all came off together.

Note:  I did have to torch heat the pulley around the allen screws to get them loose.  

There are lots of videos on u tube on removing Taper lock bushings.  Here is the one I watched:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBjtuetw44Q

If I would have done that first I wouldn't have broken mine.
 
Attachments
pulley on table.JPG
pulley on table.JPG (66.39 KiB) Viewed 84 times
pulley with insert.JPG
pulley with insert.JPG (67.61 KiB) Viewed 84 times
pulley broken piece.JPG
pulley broken piece.JPG (50.54 KiB) Viewed 84 times
pulley picture.JPG
pulley picture.JPG (56.63 KiB) Viewed 84 times
Last edited by davida on Tue May 10, 2022 7:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
davida
Posts: 174
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Re: Alternator Pulley Removal

Post by davida »

I welded the broken piece back on and put the whole assembly back on the shaft.  I think I am good to go. 

Jim, I have a 6k mile trip coming up.  If my repair fails I will call you 911.
David
Attachments
pulley installed.JPG
pulley installed.JPG (77.83 KiB) Viewed 84 times
eaglebus 1 11-16 taper lock bushing.JPG
eaglebus 1 11-16 taper lock bushing.JPG (60.38 KiB) Viewed 84 times
pulley repaired.JPG
pulley repaired.JPG (47.7 KiB) Viewed 84 times
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beltguy
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Re: Alternator Pulley Removal

Post by beltguy »

David, thanks for posting your pictures and the video link.

The video link is pretty darn good at explaining how to install and remove the bushing.  There should only be two screws that drive the busing into the pulley. You would not believe how many installations I have looked at that had all three holes filled with Allen head set screws. Mechanics just do not feel comfortable having an empty hole :).    The so called set screws are not the normal variety,  but rather have a rounded bottom that mates with the bushing.  If a normal set screw is used, it is not the end of the world.

An interesting factoid:  the set screws are not there to transmit the torque.  I have been at the Dodge Industrial Power Transmission plant (link)  when they were doing some testing for Gates and the tests were run after the screws were removed.  The taper in the system does an amazing job of transmitting the torque.

The other major bushing system out there is called Quick Detach (or QD).  It uses similar technology but looks quite different.

I have seen QD bushings used after they were broken in two, but don't recall seeing Taper Lock bushings used after they were broken in two.

When you install the bushing, make sure the taper surfaces are clean (no lube) and alternate between tightening the setscrews and tapping the bushing halves with a hammer.   Torque the set screws a little at a time (back and forth between the two) with a light tap each "half" every now and then.

I suspect your weld repair will work just fine.  Had to do that on an IHC engine.

Jim
Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
'85 Eagle 10 with Series 60 & Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission SOLD
2005 Dodge 2500 with 5.9 Cummins and 6 speed manual 2014 Passport 26 foot trailer
Bus Project pages: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog: http://beltguy.com/blog/
Email: jim@eaglesinternational.net NOTE this email box is only for general correspondence and not technical advice
Eagle obsessed
Posts: 313
Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2018 11:37 am
Bus Model: 1968 model 05 Eagle series 60 and B500
Location: McCook NE

Re: Alternator Pulley Removal

Post by Eagle obsessed »

I deal with lots of that sort of stuff for work and it’s all qd.

So that’s what I have on my bus. Not sure the benefits exactly but I do think it’s easier to reset
1968 05 Series 60/B500 swap 2019-2021
1971 05 8v71 Spicer 4 speed parts bus
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beltguy
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Re: Alternator Pulley Removal

Post by beltguy »

Mason, the Taper Lock and QD bushings are used to mount belt pulleys, chain sprockets and a host of other power transmission components.  They are the major players in the market.  The choice is often what the customer wants (at least for belts since belt pulleys are offered with both systems).  In the case of chain sprockets the market is kind of tilted towards Taper Lock since it is a more "compact" system. 

Another interesting factoid (?):  I used QD bushings for my fan drive system including a QD busing that had bearings in it for my idler.  QD bushings typically use 3 bolts to draw the bushing into the pulley.  They have two threaded holes to remove the pulley.  I had to do some maintenance on the system a few years after I installed the pulleys and found out that the tapped holes in the bushing (for removal) had badly corroded due to the harsh environment at the rear of the bus.  I was not at the shop and had a heck of a time getting the bolts to thread into the hole.  Upon installation I installed bolts in the removal holes as well to protect the thread.  I cringed when I did that, as I had "lectured" many customers that those holes should be left unused :D :o

Jim
Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
'85 Eagle 10 with Series 60 & Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission SOLD
2005 Dodge 2500 with 5.9 Cummins and 6 speed manual 2014 Passport 26 foot trailer
Bus Project pages: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog: http://beltguy.com/blog/
Email: jim@eaglesinternational.net NOTE this email box is only for general correspondence and not technical advice
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