I said earlier that I decided to foam instead of blocking. My thinking was that with the block foam moisture would form due to the temp. diff. inside and outside of the bus. When I skinned the bus I wanted a solid sheet front to back. Eagle used t6061 by .093 thick on the factory buses. They got it in big coils, and had a decoiler to reverse the coil-set. I searched for almost a year for skins with no luck. Companies would be glad to sell me a ten thousand pound roll, but not 200'. I found a supplier that carried 3036 aluminum in .063 thicknesses. I heated and stretched it as I riveted it on. It was flat as a pond even in 85-90 degree temps. The difference in the two:
1. T6061 aircraft grade is harder (non-malleable). This means it is pre-hardened from the mill, and does not do well when formed. It will crack on a tight bend. It also cycle hardens, meaning as the temp. Of the material goes up and down it hardens. This happens until it reaches its preset hardness.
2. 3036 is a much softer grade. It is used a lot for soffits, and fascias on residential and commercial buildings. It will move rapidly when heated or cooled.
The day I had the bus foamed, I was busy in the shop. I told the guys to skim than coat the skin. The foam sprays at about 250 deg. and heats up even further during the cure process. When I went out to check on the progress, I was SICK. They had started on both sides at the back and were ¾ forward. The skin had bulged out as much as an inch. It looked like a topographical map!!! They had applied the foam at about 3”. The skin moved out as the hot foam hit. The hot foam dries almost instantly so the skin had no time to cool!! I would like to say it was all their fault, but I picked the material, and I didn’t stay with them!!
This is how I applied the first skin.
This is the 3036 skin before foam. Notice it is flat
This is the 3036 skin after foam. Notice ripples and bulges.

I didn’t touch the bus again for 5-6 months. Every time I walked by I looked at the mess until one Sunday night I lost it. I worked until 3 a.m. Monday morning drilling out rivets. Monday I hooked the skid steer to the skin and pulled it off leaving the insulation in place. I looked at it and then cut it out also!! I researched and asked a thousand questions!! I still could not find a mill willing to make skin in the length and width I wanted. I decided to take another route. I could purchase sheets of T6061 in 6’ wide by 16’ long. I ordered enough for one side in .125 (1/8) thickness. We have large flat bed CNC’s designed to cut wood and plastic. I would end up with two visible seams using this material. I first cut the sheets to fit allowing for a 1” overlap at all horizontal and vertical seams. I then placed each sheet on the machine and milled the material.0625 at each joint. When the parts are lapped on the bus they will be completely flat at every joint. I also mille the bottom sheet to allow the fluted siding to mate perfectly flat also. Eagle mounted the windows directly onto the frame. The lower skin was than riveted to the frames right below the windows. A small pc. Of trim was placed over the edge of the skin. Every bus I have pulled the skin off leaks here. I have seen even the tube that the window sits on completely rusted out. They then riveted the fluted siding directly on top of the smooth siding, again with a cover. Rivets leak, and as the bus moved what little sealant they used comes loose. Both of these allow water to the tubing over the bays. This is pretty much the backbone of support. If you ever want to buy an Eagle, first sit down in the bay. Look over the door. It looks like the rust troll lives there, RUN!!!!
Before I put the skin on I put a slight bow in the middle using a wooden strip. I foamed around the tubing then used Skiaflex to seal any small areas. Any good caulk will work. THis keeps the expanding foam from pushin out the skin when sprayed. The tubing slightly above the floor was welded in to attach the fluted siding. Eagle just attached the siding without anything behind it.
Reskinned side.
I used the trim off of the overhead luggage compartments to cover the horizontal seam. I filled the back of the trim with sikaflex (non hardening) then riveted to the frame. EVERY RIVET I HAVE EVER PLACED IN THIS BUS IS DIPPED IN THIS BEFORE BEING PLACED IN THE HOLE!! This completely seals any space.
I did not like the rubber hindge or the self closing ( with my head in the way) feature of the factory doors. I like the look of cafe doors. I used as few rivets as possible on the entire bus. I built a wooden fixture to hold the parts. After I welded skinned and fitted the first set, I built the others.(Keep a squirt bottle handy as you will have fire!!)I installed all doors and used clecos for the siding. These are used to fit the skin on aircraft. Notice that there are only three rivets holding each pc. of skin. I put sikaflex between all aluminum and the steel frame. This will reduce the effects of electrolysis. The handles and latches are Trimark from Austin Hardware. All are keyed alike for my simple mind!!