Eagles International Forum

Mason,
I measured the center opening in my 1975 Model 05, and it is about 22 3/4" wide. The Model 10 center 154 Gal. tank outer cover is 22 1/2" wide, so the tank must be slightly less. So, it is theoretically possible, depending on how the internal framing is situated for the heater core and the blowers. The outer cover for the tank is 16" out from the wall. The two auxiliary tanks are bolted to the floor on either side, and are 25 X 25 X 8 1/2" on the outside, and have a small mounting bracket on the bottom that is about 3". It looks like each small tank holds about 22.5 Gal., gross capacity. The other style auxiliary I saw in one of the manuals, was a single long tank on the floor under the tank outcrop close to the wall. The main tank has a L shape, and has to be lifted up to slide out into the bay, and then taken out. I'll try to take a picture when it stops pouring here.

I checked on the differences between the metric sizes and the fractional sizes twenty years ago, and if I remember correctly, the 1/8" tube is slightly thicker than the metric size, so you will gain some weight, but it will be stronger. If you double areas that were not double before, that will definitely cause a gain. Just avoid using marble or granite and tile a lot, and you will be lighter than many coaches out there.

Walter,
There is nothing inside my cavity besides the brackets for the round tank the previous owner put in. Not one piece of the original coach air is remaining in my bus. My cavity is about 24 3/4" wide, and 48" or so deep. So in theory, I could slide a square 24x24x48" tank in and it would fit the space perfectly. It looks like the round tank they had in there was between 90 and 100 gallons.

And, I am not currently planning on too much tile, and I don't think there is going to be any granite or marble!!

Instead of rain, we just have cold, it was -4 f. last night. But that is not bus related

Oh no, cold weather is bus related. That is when not much happens unless it is tucked inside a heated garage.

Mason, here are a couple pictures of the auxillary tanks on either side of the larger main tank in a 1982 Model 10 that I bought for parts. It turns out that the engine and transmission are fine, so that is a bonus.

Hmmm... looks like they took quite a bit of bay space. But I suppose it was worth it for some operators. I think I will stick with the original (sort of) tank that they installed. I need to look inside with a flash light and see how much rust there actually is.
And, it looks like you and Wayne were exactly right on the dyed fuel. Nothing has settled to the bottom of the buckets yet.


Here are pictures of how we redid the back cap area. We just followed the basic outline of the old framing. Since it was a 1968, it still had 3 rear windows. There won't be any windows there anymore! The windows had let in so much moisture that there wasn't much framing left. So we will have a unique rear, especially since almost every Eagle I have seen has had a model 10 or newer rear cap on it!

I plated the front wheel wells with 18 ga. steel so I will have a spot to rivet the aluminum to. Today I experimented with riveting some aluminum on the curb side wheel well. I put some small pieces on, no pics yet. Should I heat up the aluminum like I did the skin or is it fine to just rivet it on? (Maybe I should start a new thread for that?)

The ribbing on the siding makes it hard to "oil can" like sheet metal does, and I have not heard of the siding being heated when being applied, but it certainly might not hurt to at least have it as hot as it would be on a summer day in the sun. It's a shame that there are not more former Eagle assemblers around to tell us what they did. On most of the bus it is only the framework that the siding is attached to, and don't forget to allow for the wheel well trim.

no need to heat the siding. The fluting makes it very stable. Nice work keep it up.
Wayne

Well got some silver on last weekend! Both wheel wells are sided, I also got the skinny piece above the baggage bays on. On the street side I was able to reuse most of the siding, on the curb side almost every piece was corroded bad so I ended up replacing most of it. And yes I painted behind it...

Thanks guys for the encouragement!

Well hopefully Jim approves of the rear truss support and bed frame Hopefully it will meet his expectations on reinforcing the engine cradle rails for towing a trailer. (or toad)