Re: Inherited 1973 eagle from dad. Maybe you can help?
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 10:43 am
Well, your estimates of fluid longevity and costs might be off a bit. Oil does not wear out from sitting, rather, it gets contaminated with acids and water, etc. If it has been sitting for years it would be prudent to crack the drain plug (without taking it out, unless you are really good and lucky about getting it back in with oil gushing out) and see if any water comes out, or much worse, any antifreeze. If there is water, drain it slowly until oil flows, and then tighten it back up. If antifreeze comes out, do the same and hope that it is a very small amount, otherwise it is a sign of big trouble that will cost.michaelbarrow11 wrote: What should I do about starting it? From what I understand the motor oil should be good for a while longer because it lasts for 5 years. If there is diesel still in it I'm thinking it should be drained and refilled. But my dad was very organized and he's probably already drained the diesel. From what I understand the diesel is only good for 6 months. Also the antifreeze should be good for three years at worst if it was mixed with tap water, which gives me about 6 months. Is there anything else I should be paying attention to other than making sure the batteries are charged? Other than everything? Lol I'm probably going to hire someone to.get it going. I know it takes a good chunk of diesel toget one if these babies rolling. I'm thinking about $100 worth should do it.
Antifreeze wise, make sure that the level in the expansion tank is at least halfway up. Do not worry about changing it, you need to establish that the engine works first before you spend any more money. The older diesel (without any ethanol) can last a long time. The problems are sediment and water contamination. The dual fuel tanks have drain plugs on them just like the oil pan. Crack the plug and drain out any water that might be there, but don't take the plug out (the diesel will run out much faster than oil will). I doubt that your father drained the fuel tanks, it would be difficult and time consuming unless it was over a pit.
Sad to say, $100 won't cover much of anything if you are thinking of hiring a diesel mechanic, in fact, they might not even drive by slowly for that amount. If the battery's are in the original setup, you have two 8D's, one on each side of the bus, and they require water level checking and timely charging to stay alive. If they have not been maintained, they might not take a charge well, or last very long. They weigh about 130-140 lbs each, and are not real cheap. I recommend newer battery chargers that have a desulfurization cycle, it can put more life into older batteries. The battery cable connections need to be cleaned at the switches, starter, and battery to insure good current flow. The starter and batteries will need to be in good shape because chances are you will be cranking it a bit to get the fuel primed and flowing. It will also be prudent to make sure that the injector racks are not stuck, because, if and when they are, a runaway engine situation can happen when it does start. (The main way to shut off a runaway engine is to have an appropriate cover over the air intake).
I figure that is all the bad news you will need now, but rest assured, there are other things to check as well before you attempt to drive it to Nashville. (Tires, brakes, shifting linkage, clutch condition, throw-out bearing, etc., and you can double clutch shift?