Good morning New Owner Here
Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 4:22 am
Good morning Everyone, and thank you to Jim for approving me.
My wife and I bought this gem last weekend (Pictures below) and I had a few questions. Overall she looks really clean. I went kind of went through the pre-purchase check list on the tech forum (I think it was there) and she is checking out fine so far. Major frame components have no rust, there are some smaller tubing in certain areas where it is rusted such as the frame to hold up the spare tire, but all in all the major components look fine. I had 2 days to look at the bus, however I did not find this check list until after my first night, so I only had a few hours to check the rest. I will be back there before I give him all of the money to do my final inspection and we have it built into the contract that I can back out for any reason and loose only 500, and was hoping that I could get a professional to look at it, preferably someone that has knowledge with these which is where I'm stuck. The bus is located in Paris, Texas. I have a call out to Tejas Coach as he is out in the area, but I can't get a return call. Put a call into Sonnie, but than read in a later thread that he has passed away so the only call I have returned is someone from a Semi Truck shop, and I guess I will go with them if I have nothing else.
I have never worked on a diesel before so this is a learning curve to me. I do have a motorhome with a 454 Chevy that I know pretty well, and have done head replacements on a 350 chevy so I'm not afraid to get down and dirty, but I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. I've learned under intense pressure broken down on the side of the road, and I've gotten pretty good at diagnosing my current motorhome's symptoms. I would just like to make sure she is safe to drive home to Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Main concerns are:
Brakes, I do not know how to tell if the brakes are good or not. My current motorhome gave me a scare one with a complete brake failure.
Run-Away Engine, I hear these things can run-away, if I'm driving the bus is there an emergency shutoff in the cockpit?
I wasn't sure if I should do a 100,000 mile service on it or not, and maybe what kind of price I should be expecting. I'd hate to pay 2k for something that should cost only 500.
This is the third one my wife and I have looked at, We were looking around the 15k mark, however once I saw this one I dug down for an extra 10k because frankly all of the others needed 20k worth of work to make it look as nice.
The only defincies with this one are: 6500 watt Gas Generator, would prefer something 10k minimum and diesel.
No Hitch
No Propane (Although I'm not sure if this matters or not, I've had my motorhome for 6 years now and we only filled up propane once 5 years ago).
Has 1 roof AC and 2 Central AC's, but I would only be able to run 2 AC's at a time with the Genset.
Full size fridge
Full size sink
Electric Stove.
65 Gallon holding tanks
65 gallon fresh water
25 gallon Gas for the genset
For the central air, instead of cutting out a hole in the door to let it breathe, he cut the whole in the bottom. Not sure if I agree with this approach, but everything done top notch.
The current owner has owned it for 7 years, and it took him 4 years to complete the renovation.
1986 Eagle Model 15
6v92 with a Rebuilt 740 Allison automatic.
Mileage is unknown. The odometer is reading 92,000, but he believes it was rolled back. It is in working condition.
To make a full complete list here are my notes from the check list will be going back to finish the missing parts of the list:
1. Walk up to the Bird and open the lower access door under the drivers window. If it is all rusted out close it and thank the owner for his time.This is a good indicator of things to come.
<<<Looks Great, nothing more than a little surface rust>>>>
2. If it looks ok, open the upper access door above it. This is the forward electrical compartment. Have a good look at the wiring for corrosion and hopefully the Eagle wire numbers are still on the wiring which will make identifying the circuits easier. If you are real lucky the inside of the door will have a readable wiring diagram there.
<<<Labled, with diagrams and looks nice and neat>>>
Sight down both sides of the bus skin. Is it buckled or wavy?
<<<Not at all, in perfect condition>>>
Remove the front bumper and crawl up in the spare tire compartment. Look at the steering box and look for previous damage or rust.
<<<Was not able to perform this procedure>>>
Crawl under the bus and look at the metal under the drivers compartment.
<<<Looks fine, better than my current motorhome>>>
Look at the front torsilastics.(BIG MONEY) Is the rubber hanging out of the ends of the tubes? How much thread (adjustment) is left on the adjusting rods? check the condition of the brake lines.
<<<This area was a little hard to tell, I think it is fine, but I need to do another inspection>>>
Look very carefully at the inside wheelwell, especially against the outer side above the tire for rust.
<<<No Rust>>>
Open all of the bay doors. what is the condition of the bays? Are the tunnel covers there? Take them off and look at the things inside.
<<<Looks great, I could eat off of them>>>
Look under the baggage bays. Are the longitudinal steel tubes in good shape? Is the tube under the door rusted out?
<<<These tubes need to be replaced at some point>>>
Is the fuel filler tube in good shape? Does it seal when closed?
<<<Tube looks to be good, although did not check the seal>>>
Is the bogie out of alinement?
<<<Not really sure what this is>>>
Check the rear torsilastics and wheel wells for the same things as the front.
<<<Need to get back there and check this>>>
Open the air compressor door. Is the bus air still there? If so I recommend you get it removed if you buy the coach.
<<<Need more information about this>>>
Open the engine door and both corner doors. Hopefully the rear electrical compartment will still have the dust cover. It may also have a readable wiring diagram. Check the corner doors for operation and the wiring for condition. Look at everthing you can see. Does the engine or miter box leak?
<<<Need to go back and look at this, but condition wise she is looking fine>>>
Crawl under the bus and check the engine and transmission for leaks. Also check the cooler hoses from the engine and transmission for condition.
<<<No leaks other than it leaks from the Air Box or slobber tubes, from what I can tell>>>
Open the radiator door. Does the radiator have corrosion? Damage?
<<<Looks great>>>
Work your way up the left side checking the same things you checked on the right.
<<<Looks great>>>
If the bus has an automatic, pull the dipstick. The fluid should be the color of transmission fluid and not have a burnt smell.
<<<Fresh Fluid>>>
Go inside the bus and remove the access panel in the floor above the top step. Look at the stuff inside and evaluate.
<<<Need to do this>>>
Go to the inside rear of the bus and remove the engine access panels (both) and the panel just forward of them. Look at the blower and valve covers and everything else for leaks. Look at the fan hub and idler. Look at the power steering pump and air compressor and the rest of the hoses there.
<<<Need to do this>>>
Now start the bus, does it smoke? what color? does it clear up right away? Remove the oil filler tube cover. Hold your hand over the opening. Is there pressure (blowby)?
<<<I get a white smoke and it clears up right away. Need to test the pressure from the oil filler tube>>>
Anything else you guys can arm me with would be much appreciated. Also my bad about not getting pictures of the underneath, it was pouring down rain the second day and was muddy and did not have it in me to take pictures of the underneath.
My wife and I bought this gem last weekend (Pictures below) and I had a few questions. Overall she looks really clean. I went kind of went through the pre-purchase check list on the tech forum (I think it was there) and she is checking out fine so far. Major frame components have no rust, there are some smaller tubing in certain areas where it is rusted such as the frame to hold up the spare tire, but all in all the major components look fine. I had 2 days to look at the bus, however I did not find this check list until after my first night, so I only had a few hours to check the rest. I will be back there before I give him all of the money to do my final inspection and we have it built into the contract that I can back out for any reason and loose only 500, and was hoping that I could get a professional to look at it, preferably someone that has knowledge with these which is where I'm stuck. The bus is located in Paris, Texas. I have a call out to Tejas Coach as he is out in the area, but I can't get a return call. Put a call into Sonnie, but than read in a later thread that he has passed away so the only call I have returned is someone from a Semi Truck shop, and I guess I will go with them if I have nothing else.
I have never worked on a diesel before so this is a learning curve to me. I do have a motorhome with a 454 Chevy that I know pretty well, and have done head replacements on a 350 chevy so I'm not afraid to get down and dirty, but I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. I've learned under intense pressure broken down on the side of the road, and I've gotten pretty good at diagnosing my current motorhome's symptoms. I would just like to make sure she is safe to drive home to Fort Lauderdale, Florida. Main concerns are:
Brakes, I do not know how to tell if the brakes are good or not. My current motorhome gave me a scare one with a complete brake failure.
Run-Away Engine, I hear these things can run-away, if I'm driving the bus is there an emergency shutoff in the cockpit?
I wasn't sure if I should do a 100,000 mile service on it or not, and maybe what kind of price I should be expecting. I'd hate to pay 2k for something that should cost only 500.
This is the third one my wife and I have looked at, We were looking around the 15k mark, however once I saw this one I dug down for an extra 10k because frankly all of the others needed 20k worth of work to make it look as nice.
The only defincies with this one are: 6500 watt Gas Generator, would prefer something 10k minimum and diesel.
No Hitch
No Propane (Although I'm not sure if this matters or not, I've had my motorhome for 6 years now and we only filled up propane once 5 years ago).
Has 1 roof AC and 2 Central AC's, but I would only be able to run 2 AC's at a time with the Genset.
Full size fridge
Full size sink
Electric Stove.
65 Gallon holding tanks
65 gallon fresh water
25 gallon Gas for the genset
For the central air, instead of cutting out a hole in the door to let it breathe, he cut the whole in the bottom. Not sure if I agree with this approach, but everything done top notch.
The current owner has owned it for 7 years, and it took him 4 years to complete the renovation.
1986 Eagle Model 15
6v92 with a Rebuilt 740 Allison automatic.
Mileage is unknown. The odometer is reading 92,000, but he believes it was rolled back. It is in working condition.
To make a full complete list here are my notes from the check list will be going back to finish the missing parts of the list:
1. Walk up to the Bird and open the lower access door under the drivers window. If it is all rusted out close it and thank the owner for his time.This is a good indicator of things to come.
<<<Looks Great, nothing more than a little surface rust>>>>
2. If it looks ok, open the upper access door above it. This is the forward electrical compartment. Have a good look at the wiring for corrosion and hopefully the Eagle wire numbers are still on the wiring which will make identifying the circuits easier. If you are real lucky the inside of the door will have a readable wiring diagram there.
<<<Labled, with diagrams and looks nice and neat>>>
Sight down both sides of the bus skin. Is it buckled or wavy?
<<<Not at all, in perfect condition>>>
Remove the front bumper and crawl up in the spare tire compartment. Look at the steering box and look for previous damage or rust.
<<<Was not able to perform this procedure>>>
Crawl under the bus and look at the metal under the drivers compartment.
<<<Looks fine, better than my current motorhome>>>
Look at the front torsilastics.(BIG MONEY) Is the rubber hanging out of the ends of the tubes? How much thread (adjustment) is left on the adjusting rods? check the condition of the brake lines.
<<<This area was a little hard to tell, I think it is fine, but I need to do another inspection>>>
Look very carefully at the inside wheelwell, especially against the outer side above the tire for rust.
<<<No Rust>>>
Open all of the bay doors. what is the condition of the bays? Are the tunnel covers there? Take them off and look at the things inside.
<<<Looks great, I could eat off of them>>>
Look under the baggage bays. Are the longitudinal steel tubes in good shape? Is the tube under the door rusted out?
<<<These tubes need to be replaced at some point>>>
Is the fuel filler tube in good shape? Does it seal when closed?
<<<Tube looks to be good, although did not check the seal>>>
Is the bogie out of alinement?
<<<Not really sure what this is>>>
Check the rear torsilastics and wheel wells for the same things as the front.
<<<Need to get back there and check this>>>
Open the air compressor door. Is the bus air still there? If so I recommend you get it removed if you buy the coach.
<<<Need more information about this>>>
Open the engine door and both corner doors. Hopefully the rear electrical compartment will still have the dust cover. It may also have a readable wiring diagram. Check the corner doors for operation and the wiring for condition. Look at everthing you can see. Does the engine or miter box leak?
<<<Need to go back and look at this, but condition wise she is looking fine>>>
Crawl under the bus and check the engine and transmission for leaks. Also check the cooler hoses from the engine and transmission for condition.
<<<No leaks other than it leaks from the Air Box or slobber tubes, from what I can tell>>>
Open the radiator door. Does the radiator have corrosion? Damage?
<<<Looks great>>>
Work your way up the left side checking the same things you checked on the right.
<<<Looks great>>>
If the bus has an automatic, pull the dipstick. The fluid should be the color of transmission fluid and not have a burnt smell.
<<<Fresh Fluid>>>
Go inside the bus and remove the access panel in the floor above the top step. Look at the stuff inside and evaluate.
<<<Need to do this>>>
Go to the inside rear of the bus and remove the engine access panels (both) and the panel just forward of them. Look at the blower and valve covers and everything else for leaks. Look at the fan hub and idler. Look at the power steering pump and air compressor and the rest of the hoses there.
<<<Need to do this>>>
Now start the bus, does it smoke? what color? does it clear up right away? Remove the oil filler tube cover. Hold your hand over the opening. Is there pressure (blowby)?
<<<I get a white smoke and it clears up right away. Need to test the pressure from the oil filler tube>>>
Anything else you guys can arm me with would be much appreciated. Also my bad about not getting pictures of the underneath, it was pouring down rain the second day and was muddy and did not have it in me to take pictures of the underneath.