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Frodnew's 1989, Model 15, 6v92, 102" wide

This is a public forum. This forum will be a place to show your Project Eagle and updates on progress you have made. Please make one thread with your project and put all updates in the same thread. Sorry... Eagles only.


frodnew wrote:

In a few weeks, my goals are to drive the panhandle of Fla, Ala, Miss, Louis, Tx and straight north thru Oklahoma and finally into Ks. If anyone is along the route or close by, please let me know. Would LOVE to drive over and say hi!


Well I am 14 miles north of Kansas, in McCook NE, not sure if your travels would bring you close but there's plenty of space for another bus. ;)
1968 05 eagle used to have 8v71 with roadranger 9 speed,
04/25/19 starting upgrade to series 60! and B500
Eagle obsessed
 
Posts: 138
Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2018 11:37 am
Location: McCook NE




In Oklahoma now after spending some time in the panhandle and westward to Dallas and north. Kansas tomorrow and then, maybe, might take a drive north to see you in Nebraska.
As far as the new upgrade of having the hydraulic lines taken out and the miter box and belts, I love it. Cleaner and easier to deal with. I've had to adjust the belts running to the fan to make them tighter and it wasn't bad...with the right tools!
While on the drive to the state of Oz, I have been stopping along the way and asking places here and there that I see that work in Detroits if there's anyone still around that knows a thing or two and the answer is usually, "Ah, there's hardly anyone left that works on or knows the two stroke anymore. Things have been upgraded to..." What I did receive was a list of the locations of this company around the States and was told to call around and certainly someone would know of someone else who does.
Till then, I'll continue to mozy onward. Pics are posted of the new belt system. My mechanic did a great job but certainly he can't be the ONLY mechanic around that works on Eagles! Would love to know if someone has a list of current mechanics. I'm on the road, will travel!

Eric

ps. I have a video of the engine running with the belts installed but am not sure how to post. It's only if someone is interested in watching about 10 seconds of it.
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frodnew
 
Posts: 62
Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2018 8:55 pm




Sent you a PM Eric
1968 05 eagle used to have 8v71 with roadranger 9 speed,
04/25/19 starting upgrade to series 60! and B500
Eagle obsessed
 
Posts: 138
Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2018 11:37 am
Location: McCook NE




Well, it's been awhile since I got on here last but there's a good reason. Last month, I was able to drive to Kansas, see my niece and nephew graduate their schools and do some traveling. I got a nice invite from Mason to come up to Nebraska and not only was the trip incredible but so was he and his family. I can't begin to tell you all what an amazing guy Mason is and skills, WOW!
He's got quite a project going with his bus and I know this baby is going to be one dream of a ride so please, if he needs answers, be specific. He's young and taking on quite a bit but handling it all like a pro. In fact, when my wife and I showed up, our left door didn't work. We don't have a single door yet but the original two doors that open from the middle. The left door piston bracket let loose and would close the door fine but open it only half way. I showed Mason and his father and like a boss, he got down inside that ride passenger side fender area and opened it up exposing the piston and it wasn't long before he was able to pull the whole thing out. Wouldn't you know it? The pin fused together with the bracket. So what does a pro like Mason do? He and his father fabricate a whole new pin in the shop! Sounds easy but let me tell you, I watched some incredible metal working happen. The piston works like it should, the doors open and I couldn't be happier meeting this young man and his family. I also paid him for his time and effort because he worked so hard on the fix.
Our stay was truly a blessing in all the best ways from a simple invite to the drive up there. The weather was wonderful, the landscape beautiful and it just goes to show what a wonderful family we have when it comes to Eagle owners.
I'm on another road trip at the moment. It didn't take long for me and my wife to get a rental car and hit the road thru the midwest to St. Louis and over to the Tenn mountains and straight down to Gainesville. Going to be doing some running around, visiting friends and looking into a great deal on a ham radio package a friend is selling. Any ham radio fans out there?
When we get back to Kansas where Fawkes, our Eagle is parked, we're planning another trip up north to visit Mason and his family again and continuing further into South Dakota where another friend is along with the buffalo. My wife is having a ball and this is exactly what this is all about.
In the meantime, I wanted to share my pics and update everyone that we have some great people in this forum. I'll be updating again soon!

Eric
KE4RIC
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frodnew
 
Posts: 62
Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2018 8:55 pm




Eric, I see in the other thread that you are hoping to reset the Torsilastics. You mention the Bus Conversions article. I am sure I have read it, but in my mind, the best process description is right here on our forum starting here: http://eagles-international.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=46&sid=affb42515777c793a293f3b87febbfe6

As you know, you will need a scale system of some sort. Many folks use a modified bottle jack with a pressure gauge.

One of the issues is where to set the drive height. There are two different measurements listed by Eagle. One is to the top of the wheel arch and the other is to the bottom of the bus. That measurement is often given as 14 inches. That is where I set my bus. The slight conflict that comes up is that that factory recommendation is for an empty bus. I set mine after all the "stuff" was in the bus. As a result, my ride height is a bit higher than many Eagles. I like it that way and it handles fine.

Jim
Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
'85 Eagle 10 with Series 60 & Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission - not at all fancy, but fully functional
Bus Project pages: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog: http://beltguy.com/blog/
Email: jim@eaglesinternational.net Note: Email sent to the this address requesting technical advice will not receive a response
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beltguy
Moderator
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Posts: 2262
Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 4:39 am
Location: Evergreen, CO




Thanks Jim on the info for the Tors! I know it's been awhile...long while...since I've been on here to report but the news is that my wife and I are doing well working, camping, living while in Utah. The bus is doing well since the last spell of us being stuck in the middle of Kansas. The DDEC IV that was replaced seems to be doing well. I've been under the bus many, many times both day and night to get a different perspective so that I can grease as much as I can underneath. I'm glad I didn't give up and had the time to do this correctly. Many fittings weren't accepting the grease so I took them out, cleaned them and ta-da! It's amazing how many people have told me that they greased my bus before and when I purchased it only to find out that there were many that were obviously not done. The insides were like thick ear wax.

On top of that, I have been spraying the Tors..well almost daily. Everyone here including those who we've visited on our way out west have said to load 'em up! Wheel bearings are good, brakes are good, tires are good. Yep, it's been a chore but a good learning one. Glad I did this.

Our season will be ending soon and then it's back to Loveland for a short stop. Jim, maybe there will be a chance we can meet up too?
Text me anytime and let me know if you're up for it. We can work out the details from there. 904-910-8708.

Now, it's time I start researching something that is tricky to turn off. How to stop the inside of the bus from heating up when driving down the road. I don't have an on board A/C system with a compressor and condenser like it used to have when running as a coach down the road and the blowers in the bay do work but they blow hot air inside. I've had a few people look at my situation and it seems that the water lines from the engine are in the open position somewhere and looking in my manual shows that either I tap into the lines on each side of the engine with 1 1/2" galvanized male insert hose adapters and ball valve to shut on/off or cap it completely? Chapter 13, A/C and Heating, of the manual shows wonderful schematics of the system but nothing yet on how to turn off the heat. Any ideas, let me know. I'll be reading and when I find the solution (crossing fingers) I'll update.

Eric
frodnew
 
Posts: 62
Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2018 8:55 pm




Eric, thanks for the update. When are you going to be in Loveland. Wayne Schell is in that area. Maybe the three of us could meet up in that area.

It has been a long time since I had my original engine and piping in, but I think I recall a ball valve on the driver's side towards the flywheel end of the engine.

Even with the heat turned off buses tend to get hot inside - especially if they only have the factory insulation. The windshields and windows are great heat gatherers. Plus there is always some outside air leakage.

I installed an aftermarket engine driven compressor (and big evaporator) in mine and it does a pretty good job. I describe it in some detail on my project pages.

Some folks run their generator so that they can run the roof or basement air while going down the road.

Before I installed the dash air, we used fans on the dash and spray bottle of water. Pretty crude, but it sorta worked

Jim
Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
'85 Eagle 10 with Series 60 & Eaton AutoShift 10 speed transmission - not at all fancy, but fully functional
Bus Project pages: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
Blog: http://beltguy.com/blog/
Email: jim@eaglesinternational.net Note: Email sent to the this address requesting technical advice will not receive a response
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beltguy
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Jim:

Would LOVE to see us all meet up! Photo opp, lunch or something. Will certainly keep in touch about this one!! Timing looks to be in the middle of next month. Season here ends on the 15th.

On the flip side, I continued to research the forums, my manuals and of course, take into consideration all that you had mentioned about how to eliminate or reduce the amount of heat that comes into the bus, especially the back end. I still have my tinted, one pane tour windows but they are all draped inside anytime we're in warm places and/or the sun. My mechanic in Fla. and many other bus owners, other mechanics, etc...have all said that it will get hot inside. One good bus friend we met on the eastern side of Colorado said that we needed to get our A/C blowers working so that air could cool us off. They're in the bay, get them going! However, the passenger blower wasn't running and neither did the switch to turn them on. Luckily, we have another friend who works on RV's and full times in an airstream. He looked over the schematics of the manual, went over the fuse boxes, relays, wires, harnesses, etc.. and found a resolution to getting the blowers to work including the switch at the dash. However, taking it for a test run, NOT having an on board A/C powerhouse like most owners have, the heat of the engine in combination with the blower blew only hot air.

So, we've opted to run our inverter/generator while running down the road, something we have been told not to do but with one rooftop A/C unit, it felt better. We also have two 10 speed Maxxair vents. Granted, it's still hot outside, it's one A/C unit and engine is still obviously pushing hot air into the bus somehow but it was better than it has been.

Down the road, we'll get this all resolved with better windows, insulation, floor, A/C, etc... Till then, I continued to research the bus's manual, forums and found that there was possibly something that could have a relationship with the hot water being circulated from the engine and a "possible" shut off valve. Granted Jim, I have not read your comments till now, AFTER working on this all day.

So, It's location was under one of the trap doors in the floor. Number 3. I have one panel or door above the engine. That's #1. Two and three are in the photos with #3 heading toward the front. I wish the condition of mine were not so difficult to open up (I had to use a grinder to get the screws off) but once inside, it was like open heart surgery with a LOT of dust, dirt and grime. I was told to get personal with the bus and that's what I did. Cleaning up the inside with all kinds of brushes, scrapers and a very good shop vac, I photographed the main arteries and a tag hidden and covered in grime. Cleaning it off, it's hard to read but could this valve be what I'm looking for in order to keep the water hoses circulating back toward the engine and not up in the front compartment? My manual does not have this yellow tag nor a description telling me what it does.

If any of you have ever come across this, please let me know what it is and does. In the meantime, I've put it all back (including the tag) and will see what you say. I'm very curious.
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frodnew
 
Posts: 62
Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2018 8:55 pm




Well, our time out west has been a wonderful opportunity to see new places, people and gain new experiences. It's also allowed me to get into the bus even more! From the last post, I continued to research, inspect and clean new areas in order to find a way to logically turn off any water hoses from the engine toward the front of the bus so that we're not so hot when driving.

Recap:
Originally when purchased, there was no on board generator to operate the A/C system. Instead, we purchased a 3500w inverter/generator to operate the A/C roof unit when parked. The blowers (left and right inside the system under the 3rd bays near the bogie) did not function via the switch on the dash. Also, the blower under the driver's seat (behind the front bumper) did not work. So, basically, when driving with the windows shut, door shut, the bus (especially in Florida or anywhere in the south) was super hot. No air movement except for the 12v fans inside that were already installed.
We have the inverter to run the one rooftop A/C unit but like all forum/verbal/website debates, it was a toss up to risk running it down the road while driving since it's the type you wheel anywhere for work sites, camping or sitting next to the bus while boondocking.

Bottom line:
Blowers in the A/C area in bay 3 now work. Had a friend review the manuals with me, test all connections and somehow he made some type of connection to make the solenoids click on; guess they were stuck by NOT being used. In a test drive: windows closed up and blowers on, the only thing it did was make it hot and windier inside so I turned them off. I thought, "Man, if it would just blow natural fresh air inside from the out!"
The mystery continued on where/how to keep the water pipes flowing in the engine area and not run up toward the front. I mean, looking at the manual (pics incl), you can see the layout that there is a shut off valve under the floor panels somewhere. Last time I posted, I think I found it but I didn't get any replies so let things be for now.

Solution to cooling the bus while driving till I can find more answers? Run the inverter/generator and get the A/C cranking the cool air!
Some say that because it's a gas running inverter that the heat of the engine could be an issue (heat) but I created a fire wall with plenty of openness to allow for air flow to both generator and bus engine. Besides, my engine gauge always show it to run at 170F average (at least that's what my gauge says and I keep an eye on it constantly.

Reading up some more on the manual (new pics added), Chapter 13, pgs 13D/39-42, I noticed some more info. It seems that heat/cool inside the bus is monitored or controlled by a mechanism called the gradustat. If the bus's AC system is running like a tour bus should, then I can see how all this ties together. However, in my case, the engine seems to be heating/cooling itself based on it's own internal fluids and ambient weather conditions. Many folks who have seen my situation or heard of it basically say that it sounds like the engine's water pipes run through the bus and head toward the front heating it up. Either cap it off back at the engine with shut off valves so they can also be opened for winter weather or find a shut off valve elsewhere.
Could the gradustat be the answer...or one of the answers? If so, could blocking the morse code looking metal tab called the Bi-metal strip (page 13D-39, Figure 13D-46 at the bottom of the page (located inside the floor vent, driver's side mounted on side wall) with something allow me to drive the bus and NOT have this thing make a connection to tell the heating coil to turn on? I'm thinking this sounds like a thermostat in a car.

Another option which I still can't find an answer to is the yellow tag from the last post above that goes to a valve in front of the booster pumps in the floor (see pics/post). The two schematics after page 13D-42, chapter 13, show it to be called the Main Liquid Solenoid but this is for high pressure liquid (not sure what type?). There are also two modulation valves next to the blowers that run hot coolant to the evaporator and heater coil and since the air is hot when I turn the blowers on while running down the road, I thought this could/might be something else related?

I guess the best news of all this is, I'm getting better at taking chances on learning about the bus and reading/researching more on how to find answers but you know what? The internet is a BIG hole and sometimes, the answers aren't there. So, here I post hoping that it sounds logical about what I'm experiencing and how I'm overcoming some of the heat issues till I learn what/if the things I've mentioned can be resolved at all.
My goals down the road will eventually have solar power on the roof, A/C units, battery bank, etc... but till then, it would be great to shut something down to limit the heat at the engine instead of bringing it in the bus, find a fresh air solution to the blowers so they can run while driving down the road. Add better commercial 12v fans inside and let my hair blow!

One last thing. The front blower under the captain's seat designed to cool off the front driver's area. Motor is shot. Needs to be rebuilt and I'll be researching that but it's out and nestled in the bay. It, too, is another factor like the back blowers on whether it'll blow hot air at me or cool. (pics incl).

Two more weeks till we leave for Colorado. Still want to visit with Wayne and Jim (if possible!)
Eric
Ham: KE4RIC
Cell: Call/Text anytime: 904-910-8708
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frodnew
 
Posts: 62
Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2018 8:55 pm




Eric, I forget, are you going to be at the rally this week?
1968 05 eagle used to have 8v71 with roadranger 9 speed,
04/25/19 starting upgrade to series 60! and B500
Eagle obsessed
 
Posts: 138
Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2018 11:37 am
Location: McCook NE


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