Surging alternater

[sunday driver]

I've had my first Eagle for a couple of months now and I've noticed that the charge meter jumps up and down from about 12 to 16 volts all of the time. No matter what the rpms are. The guy that I bought it from said that he had replaced the regulator, had the generator rebuilt, and ran a hot wire from the battery to the generator but it still surges. By the way I assume that it is a generator instead of alternator. It is about the size of five gallon bucket. But anyway does anyone have any idea what it would take to fix this thing? The previous owner said that it was just an eagle thing but I'm not satisfied with that. I know it gets very annoying driving down the road at night watching the headlights go from bright to dim all the time.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Ernie
Sunday Driver

[wal1809]

I am a new owner like you. The only information I have to offer is mine does not do as you described.

[rusty]

Ernie, I don,t have and are not familiar with the stock Alternator. But I think they have a seperate regulator and I would start your looking there. Someone will read this that knows what your problem is and will chime in.

Good luck Wayne

[Dreamscape]

Ernie,

Do you have the manual, it will tell you how to set the voltage regulator. I did mine several years ago. Just remember when you take off the cover, do not ground hot wire to body. Just be careful. You have to have the engine rpm up to around 1200rpm I think to set it. I'll check my book to make sure. There is a small screw in the center of the cover that you turn to set it.

Another thought, you might have a bad diode in the alternator. If I were you I'd replace it with a newer style, as many have done. That is unless you have coach air, then you might need that big monster. I still have mine and when it goes I'll switch it over and add another one for the house batts.

[luvrbus]

2 things cause that 1 a bad regulator 2 belts slipping start with the easy part the 3 belts I get about 3 years from a set of the 3 belts before I start having that problem 40 bucks and you are good for another 3 years.
If you are planning on running a rooftop off the inverters when traveling hang on to the 50D you need the amps and plus it is the best alternator ever built still made after 30 plus years.
It sounds like you have a belt problem they may look good but they glaze over and slip



good luck
Clifford

[Dreamscape]

Here it is from the Eagle Troubleshooting manual I have.

Voltage Regulator Setting
To check the voltage setting, connect a voltmeter across the positive and negative terminals of the regulator and ammeter at the D.C. terminal of the alternator and positive battery terminal at rear battery disconnect switch. Operate the engine at approximately 1,000 rpm with accessories turned on to obtain about 120 amperes of alternator output. Note the voltage setting, should be between 13-1/2 and 14 volts. If the setting is not within this normal value, adjust the regulator seeing as follows:

Remove the plug from the regulator cover and turn the adjusting screw inside the regulator using a screwdriver.
- Rotate clockwise to increase voltage setting.
- Rotate counterclockwise to decrease voltage setting.

NOTE: Do not adjust the voltage regulator setting by more than 0.3 volt over a minimum service period of 48 hours.

If the voltage cannot be adjusted to the desired value, alternator should be checked as mentioned below.
Alternator Output Check.

a) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
b) Disconnect all leads from regulator and generator field terminal. NOTE: Do not allow leads to be grounded.
c) Connect one ammeter lead to battery positive terminal and the other lead to alternator “DC” terminal.
d) Connect one voltmeter lead to alternator “DC” terminal and the other to generator and other voltmeter lead to ground on generator frame.
e) Connect a jumper lead from generator “DC” terminal to generator field terminal.
f) Reconnect negative battery cable at battery.
g) Start engine and operate at approximately 1500 rpm (Model 10)/900 rpm (Model 05).
h) Turn on all coach accessories and adjust load until a 290 ampere (Model 10)/195 ampere (Model 05) current draw is shown on ammeter.
i) Check voltmeter, a minimum voltage reading of 13.7 volts should be obtained.

NOTE: Check for open, shorted or grounded alternator diodes, stator windings, and field windings.
Voltage Regulator Relay Check.

a) Connect voltmeter lead to No. 4 terminal of relay and to vehicle ground.
b) Start engine. A reading of 6 to 7 volts is normal and indicates proper feed to relay.
c) Connect voltmeter lead to No. 3 terminal of relay and to vehicle ground. Voltmeter should read battery voltage when generator is charging. No voltage indicates a defective relay.

[luvrbus]

Erine, one thing when checking out the relays that charging system relay is a 6V so don't panic if you get a 6V reading.

good luck
Clifford

[Sunchaser Art]

I'm not sure if it'll be any help, but our '88 Model 15 did the same thing. After screwing around for a bit and playing with the regulator, I found an old style horn-type relay that was placed in-line between the alternator and regulator. The relay (I think it's a Delco #1115861) looks like it was an add-on because they might have been experiencing current draw.

Basically, the relay was one of the old magnetic/point units and the internal connections were corroded. I ended-up replacing that with a continuous duty solenoid, and no problems since then.

Good luck,

Art

[bob]

Along this same line, I am having trouble getting the alternator to charge and also the main blowers to work. I think I have found it to be the 6volt supply to the relays that in turn change it to 12volts to the blowers and 12volts to the regulator. I do have 6 volts at the post on the alternator, but intermittent juice at relays. I have rebuilt alternator (wow, expensive) changed relays , etc. I no longer have the large dc blowers but use that juice as a supply for some other things. It was a great use because it only was able to be used after coach was running a while. I think it is tied to air pressure. Anyway, is it possible to just use a 12volt jumper activated by the ignition switch to the solenoid that powers the regulator and also the two solenoids for the dc blower power. This seems to me that it would be the same results as any other vehicle would use. I figure it was built this way to relieve the drag when starting the coach. Is this what is done if you change over to two seperate alternators. I don't see where you would get the six volts withe the two alternators. Please help thanks

[sunday driver]

Well after checking things out a little better I've found out that the regulator has not been replaced, it looks like the original housing anyway. The guts look fairly new but I'm not sure.
I replaced the belts like Clifford said, they were in bad shape but it didn't fix the problem. My next move will be to replace the regulator I guess. Where would be the best place to buy one of those things? Can my auto parts store order something like that or will it have to come from Eagle??
Anyway thanks a lot for the advice I really appreciate it.
Ernie
Sunday Driver